Next, the rocker arms, cams, cam oil squirters and timing gears and chains are installed.
Rathyna’s engine is almost ready to go.
With the STurdteen’s engine no longer a worn out pile of crap, we will next focus on rebuilding her worn out transmission and getting the engine back in the car so we can start sorting out the rest of the mess. With our mods her car should have a solid platform that will be much more reliable than what she had. Stay tuned!
17 comments
Why not OEM main studs?
For competition engines, I prefer not to use them because they are torque to yield and they stretch and take a set. They can only be reused maybe once and it’s a good idea to change them every time on a serious engine.
Mr. Kojima,
How do I get in touch with you on building a Ford V6 motor?
for the mains, did you guys use arp’s torque spec or something else? I always thought it was a bit high
We split the difference. ARP’s torque spec is too high and the threads might pull out.
What does ARP call for and what did you guys end up going with?
ARP states 80 ft/lbs we think that’s too much. We use 65 ft lbs.
No WPC this time?
No not on this engine.
Low Silicone…hehe, I hope those pistons don’t need big boobs.
stupid autocorrect
Are you modifying the upper oil pan to clear the windage tray or did you find/make a spacer? the jet nuts on my tray touch the upper pan and require me to mod my pan.
It’s weird on my FWD engine we did have to mod the pan but on this RWD engine, we didn’t.
Hi!
When would you say the HP limit is for OEM MAIN bolts?
Thanks.
//Daniel
They must be replaced every time but around 500 hp
Thank you. Did you also made an Aline bore after fitting the ARP’s?
Thanks!
We always check and in this case no. For Subarus yes 100% of the time.