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The toe control adjusters allow for adjustability of toe curves quickly, which is a big advantage for setting up a drift or grip car. The curves can be set to toe in under roll, toe out under roll or to be neutral.
The toe plates work in conjunction with the Limit Break drop knuckle and a special toe rod. The plates bolt to the knuckle and the toe rods go in one of 5 vertically spaced holes. This allows for adjustments in the toe curve.
Installing the brackets were very simple! Just simply placing the bolts within the allotted holes on the rear drop knuckle and tightening them down gets you there.
Here is the full view of the dual caliper drop knuckle with the toe brackets installed.
Now we are installing the 5-lug hub onto the rear drop knuckle. The knuckle comes equipped with spherical bearings to replace the stock soft rubber bushings. This assures that the alignment stays true under load and greatly reduces static friction which helps bump response.
Next, we install the PSM traction rods. The length is also adjustable and allows the rear drop knuckle to move forward or backward under compression. This also affects the toe curve. They also affect camber in conjunction with the upper arms.
9 comments
It would be amazing if mike posted an article about aligning this specific setup as it is a common combination for a lot of grassroots drift cars.
What I would set it at for a baseline for a low powered SR20DET grassroots car is around 5 degrees negative camber in the front with 5-6 degrees positive caster and 1/8″ toe out with the roll center corrected and bump steer adjusted to zero. In the rear, I would set to toe curve adjuster to neutral toe (no toe in gain), zero rear camber and zero to 1/8″ toe in. If the car had higher power, I would toe the rear in 1/8″ and possibly set the toe curve to gain toe in under compression a little. I would adjust the traction rods longer for a flatter toe curve. Roll center should be corrected by the rear knuckles. There you go!
Thank you Mike! I have one more question. What is your opinion on lowering the front mounting point of the rlca to correct anti squat on s13’s?
Thank you so much for sharing your vast knowledge with us grassroots guys!!
For Pro cars, I lower the front 1″ and raise the rear an inch. This works well but for a grassroots car, you risk bogging down the motor. I would say you need at least 400 hp to exploit this. For close to stock DET’s, for example, that struggle to drift 3rd, don’t bother.
oooooo now you are talking! thank you sir!
Hey Mike, would this adjustment be the same for s14’s?
I second that question:)
Would it be the same adjustment for s14s?
Yes
I guess I seconded myself haha