Project STurdteen: Installing Parts Shop Max Suspension


Here is a comparison of the Limit Break extended tie rods in comparison to my OEM length ones. A lot longer in length and sturdier.  The Limit Break tie rod has an offset tie rod spacer that positions the rod end forward. This reduces the chances of over centering at extreme steering angles.  

Overcentering is when the tie rod is extended so far that it can only flex sideways instead of making turn-in with more angle.  Overcentering is particularly bad on rear steer cars like Nissan S chassis.

The tie rod offset tie rod spacer also reduces the excess build of Ackerman angle and the ends of the steering rack travel.  Too much Ackerman here can make the car easy to spin.

Now we apply red Loctite to the Limit Break steering rack to inner tie rod mount offset spacer bolt, which prevents it from coming loose.
Here is the tie rod installed.

The end link is installed into the front Progress sway bar that we just installed.

The front knuckle assembly is now installed. 



  1. It would be amazing if mike posted an article about aligning this specific setup as it is a common combination for a lot of grassroots drift cars.

    1. What I would set it at for a baseline for a low powered SR20DET grassroots car is around 5 degrees negative camber in the front with 5-6 degrees positive caster and 1/8″ toe out with the roll center corrected and bump steer adjusted to zero. In the rear, I would set to toe curve adjuster to neutral toe (no toe in gain), zero rear camber and zero to 1/8″ toe in. If the car had higher power, I would toe the rear in 1/8″ and possibly set the toe curve to gain toe in under compression a little. I would adjust the traction rods longer for a flatter toe curve. Roll center should be corrected by the rear knuckles. There you go!

      1. Thank you Mike! I have one more question. What is your opinion on lowering the front mounting point of the rlca to correct anti squat on s13’s?

        Thank you so much for sharing your vast knowledge with us grassroots guys!!

        1. For Pro cars, I lower the front 1″ and raise the rear an inch. This works well but for a grassroots car, you risk bogging down the motor. I would say you need at least 400 hp to exploit this. For close to stock DET’s, for example, that struggle to drift 3rd, don’t bother.

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