Project STurdteen: Installing Parts Shop Max Suspension


Tightening everything up!

The tie rod is now installed to the front knuckle. 

Now placing the front rotor back on.

The caliper goes back on with ease.

Here is another angle of everything in the front installed. You can see that everything is significantly pushed out, making the front track wider.  

This does two things, first, it makes more room for more steering angle. Second, a wider track is more responsive and reduces understeer on turn in and makes the front less likely to wash out in drift. Time for me to invest in some wider fenders!


Here is the bottom view of the Limit Break top plate adapter that we overviewed in the KW Clubsport installation article.

The plate pushes the upper strut mount outboard and is highly adjustable for caster.  The plate's job is to control kingpin inclination angle and caster so you don't have excessive wheel tilt at big steering angles. This can also cause the front end to wash out in drift due to a loss in tire contact patch. 

Camber adjustment is mostly made at the strut mounting point and through the lower arm bearing adjustment. 



  1. It would be amazing if mike posted an article about aligning this specific setup as it is a common combination for a lot of grassroots drift cars.

    1. What I would set it at for a baseline for a low powered SR20DET grassroots car is around 5 degrees negative camber in the front with 5-6 degrees positive caster and 1/8″ toe out with the roll center corrected and bump steer adjusted to zero. In the rear, I would set to toe curve adjuster to neutral toe (no toe in gain), zero rear camber and zero to 1/8″ toe in. If the car had higher power, I would toe the rear in 1/8″ and possibly set the toe curve to gain toe in under compression a little. I would adjust the traction rods longer for a flatter toe curve. Roll center should be corrected by the rear knuckles. There you go!

      1. Thank you Mike! I have one more question. What is your opinion on lowering the front mounting point of the rlca to correct anti squat on s13’s?

        Thank you so much for sharing your vast knowledge with us grassroots guys!!

        1. For Pro cars, I lower the front 1″ and raise the rear an inch. This works well but for a grassroots car, you risk bogging down the motor. I would say you need at least 400 hp to exploit this. For close to stock DET’s, for example, that struggle to drift 3rd, don’t bother.

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