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The rear subframe bushing isn’t captive between the chassis and a bracket like the front. The lower side is free floating with a wide metal flange to hold the bushing in place when bolted to the chassis.
For the rear bushing, Steeda also uses a top aluminum insert but since the bottom of the bushing isn’t captive, in order to restrict movement, they chose to use a two-piece C-clamp shaped isolator that is bolted together with two allen-head bolts. In this picture, we started the bolt but didn’t tighten it down fully until all four corners were done and ready to be tightened down.Once we were done with the subframe bushings, we started on the differential bushing inserts.
With the rear diff bolt removed, we can clearly see the rather large vertical voids in the diff bushing. Under load, this vertical movement accentuates wheel hop. It’s surprising how much the diff moves up and down when even under moderate loads, let alone under full throttle or launches.
We decided to go with the softer red (street, 80 durometer) diff bushing inserts since this car is mainly street driven. The inserts fill in a ½” deep void and are captive by a very large washer, so we felt the increased stiffness of the black Performance bushing wouldn’t be necessary for our use. Once the inserts are lubed up, they are quite easy to install.
