Extreme Engine Tech: Building the Ultimate K24 Part 2 The Bottom End!

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We chose ARP head studs over the stock torque to yield bolts because studs are easier on the block threads, important for a boosted engine.  Studs also provide more accurate torque readings because they don’t twist into the block when being tightened. Studs also give a greater clamp load for better gasket sealing. ARP studs are made of 8740 chromoly steel. 8740 has superior strength over a more common chromoly like 4130 because it has a higher carbon content and responds to heat treatment better.  It also makes use of nickel as an alloying element which increases toughness.  8740 has a very high tensile strength of around 200,000 psi.

The ARP studs also have several design features like rolled (superior to cut threads due to good grain formation in the thread root) asymmetrical J-form threads with more engagement area on the stressed tighten side and a reduced center diameter to reduce stress risers. ARP studs also have high quality forged nuts and precision ground and hardened washers for accurate torque and positive retention.

To help keep things lubricated, we chose a Moroso racing oil pan.  Under hard cornering K motors are known to starve for oil and the Moroso pan has a higher oil capacity and other features to reduce the likelihood of this happening.  Turbo’s also heat and aerate the oil and demand an uninterrupted source of oil as well.

The Moroso pan has a horizontal baffle to reduce the oils sloshing under cornering, braking and hard launches. The baffle covers almost the entire sump for maximum effectiveness.

The Moroso pan also has vertical baffles around the oil pick up with hinged trap doors to keep the area around the pump submerged in oil even under lateral loads.  This is tons better than the stock oil pan.
The first step in assembling our engine was to check and adjust the compression ring end gaps. Howard Watanabe did this by putting each ring in it’s individual bore, pushing it down flat with a piston and measuring the gap with a feeler gage.  The ring gaps were then all filed to be consistent and within spec.  Howard then put the fitted ring sets for each cylinder together to prepare for assembly.

1 comment

  1. Cool to see you guys using the newer k24 blocks, wished you used the head too because I wanted to see what works. I’m building a k24z3 and saw that you cut off the balance shafts, by retaining the stock oil pump system means I can still use the bottom location oil filter correct?

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