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The bearing saddles are wiped dry and clean. All prior cleaning residue must be removed. You want maximum contact with the bearing shell and saddle to transfer heat and to get the most crush load on the bearing itself.
The bearing backing is also wiped dry and clean, all packing rust inhibitor must be removed.
The main bearing halfs are snapped into place. The grooved half goes on top and make sure the oil holes line up with the oil galley holes on the block. The tangs on the bearing shells will prevent you from installing them backwards but we have seen people still manage to do it!
Howard puts the upper main bearings into the block’s bed plate. Instead of your traditional main caps, the K24 has what is called a bed plate. The bed plate is literally a plate that contains the main caps and bottom of the block all as a one piece integral unit. This is the strongest way to build an engine bottom end. Most bespoke racing engines and some late model engines are configured like this. A light film of heavy motor oil is applied to the bearing faces as an assembly lube.
Some oil is put into the center distribution groove as well. You don’t want to over do it so oil gets in between the bearing outer shell and the block.
Howard lays the crank in place on top of the bearing halfs.
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Cool to see you guys using the newer k24 blocks, wished you used the head too because I wanted to see what works. I’m building a k24z3 and saw that you cut off the balance shafts, by retaining the stock oil pump system means I can still use the bottom location oil filter correct?