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The crank is in the block, ready for the installation of the bed plate.
The bed plate is placed on the block. It is easy to see how this is a very strong and rigid method of block design.
The main bolts are lubricated including the washers. Lubrication is important for assuring the correct tightening torque.
The bolts are hand tightened into the block. It is good to initially do this by hand. This allows you to feel that all is right with the threads before applying torque.
The bolts are torqued down.
Next the oil pump/balance shaft assembly is modified. The oil pump is driven by the balance shaft drive gears so the gears need to stay in place. The balance shafts eat about 10-12 hp and whip the engine oil into froth, heating it up in the process, not good. They also spin at twice the engine’s speed so keeping them from seizing is an issue as well. Balance shafts help counteract an inline 4 cylinder’s up and down shaking moment and do not affect the engines reciprocating parts balance at all. Since we don’t care about some NVH related vibration, we will remove the balance shafts and enjoy better lubrication, get rid of a failure point and get some more power.
Howard simply cut the balance shafts off using a cutoff saw.
1 comment
Cool to see you guys using the newer k24 blocks, wished you used the head too because I wanted to see what works. I’m building a k24z3 and saw that you cut off the balance shafts, by retaining the stock oil pump system means I can still use the bottom location oil filter correct?