On both the front and rear dampers, a standard (SAE/imperial) hex wrench is used to make the adjustment damping. Which is sort of annoying, because almost everything else on this car is metric. I guess I’ll make a dedicated damper toolkit.
The compression adjustment is a “click”-type, with 40 defined positions. The shaft mount rebound adjustment is infinitely variable, with 4 1/2 turns/rotations across the range. Penske recommends making adjustments 1/4 turn at a time.
FIGS designs and manufactures the top plates for the front and rear in-house. They feature really sexy studs and a custom fit spherical bearing to allow the damper body to move around as the suspension articulates.
You will want every jack that you have, and all your jack stands because you’ll need to move the suspension around quite a bit to make the removal and installation of components easier.
Moving the knuckle up and down using the jack makes it easier to get the damper off the lower control arm. You’ll also want to make sure the swaybar is disconnected so that you’re not fighting it.
Don’t forget to hold onto the coilover when you’re unbolting it or it will fall out!