Project SC300 Road Racer: Part 29 – You’re in Figs Army now.
new orange upper control arm in place
OK, the RUCA is more or less in place.

Some 3D calculus with the jack(s) will get the knuckle back into place so that you can drop the stud through, and then you simply put the nut on.

If I was doing this right, I would have removed the axle and then used a torque wrench to properly torque this nut. But I’m lazy and stupid, so I used a box wrench and lots of Ugga Duggas to torque the FIGS-supplied nylon lock nut. Then I used that yellow marking paint that we used when we installed the Grannas Racing T56 kit. If the marking paint cracks, it means the nut has come un-torqued and should be re-tightened.

You are nutting and bolting your car after every race weekend and inspecting all paint marks, aren’t you?


two orange front lower control arms in comparison laying on garage floor
Here are the revised FIGS SC300 LCA and the original for comparison.

I gave Mike Figaro some feedback, and he nearly completely redesigned the LCA. It now features more scoop to accommodate the massive 295 tires that I am running on the Titan7 T-S5 wheels. It also has revised reinforcements and a new welding process to ensure additional strength and durability. Mike is never satisfied, and this is an example of how he’s willing to continually improve his products.


orange front lower and upper control arms in comparison to dirty stock pieces
Here are the stock front LCA and UCA in comparison to the FIGS pieces.


metal bracket and bolts holding ABS wire to upper control arm with gold and blue shock in the background, brake rotor in foreground
As with the rear, remove the ABS wire bracketry and pop out the ABS sensor and get it out of the way before removing the UCA.


castellated nut and cotter pin holding upper ball joint to knuckle
Remove the little cotter pin and then take off the nut. Use the air hammer, and then the UCA is free from the knuckle.

Also, notice that the last shop that touched your suspension conveniently forgot to reattach your swaybar end link. Why do I have such bad luck with “performance” shops?

Note: it was NOT Robinson Racing (the last article written, about Sabelt)

Just like with the rear, I recommend holding up the knuckle to prevent it from flopping over after the ball joint is popped.

1 comment

  1. Those Penskes are nice, but pricey. A set of 4-way adjustable ones for my FR-S is like $11k! Definitely a pro-user setup.

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