It goes through both of the UCA inboard attachments and through a large block that is part of the frame of the car.
Again, I thought I was setting the UCA length to about the same as the stock UCA. It turned out that I definitely was not quite doing that, but you’ll learn about that in a future article!
Adjusting the front UCA is a bit of a pain, but you should not have to do it frequently. You remove the whole bolt, slide the UCA off the factory inboard mount, and then spin the rod ends in or out to make them longer or shorter. Ideally you want them the same length. Technically one could probably influence the front caster a smidge by misaligning the upper and lower control arms, but not by much. The majority of that comes from the knuckle, which is a cast piece and isn’t adjustable.
With the FIGS setup, even though you can adjust the inboard rod ends on both the UCA and LCA, camber is controlled in the front suspension using the factory eccentric bolts that attach the LCA to the frame. The combination of the LCA and UCA rod end lengths sets the base camber, and the eccentrics give you the range of adjustment (several degrees, in fact).
Fortunately, I had spare inners. And I figured this was as good a time as any to get rid of the factory outer tie rods that feature a greasy rubber ball joint, which is likely going to be melted by my StopTech brakes. Or possibly set on fire. Because that’s my kind of luck.
These tie rod ends are pretty awesome. They feature a stack of spacers so that you can adjust the height of where the tie rod attaches to the knuckle. For drift setups with extreme angle or for super slammed cars, that can come in really handy.
Don’t forget to torque that nut on the bottom after you decide on your spacer setup. I also paint marked it, like everything else.
I wish I had bought it before I did the last job!