All 4 pistons and rods are installed in an identical manner.
Now the ARP head studs are lubed up with ARP assembly lube.
The studs are installed into the block.
Our MLS head gasket is lowered into place.
Now the bottom end is ready to receive the head. As a note, high-quality studs can be torqued to a higher value than the stock torque to yield bolts bu for many cases we stick to the stock torque. Higher torque can cause distortion of the bore and the valve seats and if you are planning to use higher torque values, it is important to do your valve job and bore and hone with a torque plate at the intended torque loads. Since this is not a big boost turbo motor we are going to use the stock head bolt torque valves to avoid these potential issues.
The head is placed down on the short block.
3 comments
I am relieved You didn’t use the ARP main studs mentioned in Part One of this build.
That would’ve been total overkill on that power level.
In my previous life, I used to work for a motorsport shop that built rally, rallycross and circuit racing K-series engines among other things.
On NA builds with limited budget (which most of them were), we reused OEM Honda main studs up to 4 times, even head studs were reused up to 3 times.
Only difference was, they were always torqued to a specific value with a certain type of lubricant.
And not one time did we have a problem with bolts backing out or losing tension. If a headgasket did blow, it was always due to severe knock or overheating.
This looks like it’s going to be a fun package! What kind of power and torque is expected? Will engine speeds remain about stock?
Using WPC on the camshaft is beneficial on a Honda’s B series as well since these engines don’t have a bearing on the followers like the K series.
Looking forward to seeing what Motoiq does with the transmission of the RSX!