The OEM windage tray is bolted in place.
Sealant is applied to the oil pan and it is bolted down.
Now the belt tensioner is installed. We used a K-Tuned auto tensioner to assure that proper belt tension would be maintained at all times.
We used a K-Tuned tensioner cover which makes tensioner checks much easier due to a 0-ring seal instead of sealant like the OEM cover uses. The K-Tuned tensioner cover is machined from billet aluminum and looks pretty cool as well!
Our engine is now together!
Next up is installing the McLeod aluminum flywheel. We got into detail about this flywheel in a previous article. We installed the flywheel with high strength ARP bolts. We tightened the flywheel down and loosened it 3x to work harden the aluminum under the bolt heads to assure accurate torque readings.
The McLeod clutch is now installed on the pressure plate.
3 comments
I am relieved You didn’t use the ARP main studs mentioned in Part One of this build.
That would’ve been total overkill on that power level.
In my previous life, I used to work for a motorsport shop that built rally, rallycross and circuit racing K-series engines among other things.
On NA builds with limited budget (which most of them were), we reused OEM Honda main studs up to 4 times, even head studs were reused up to 3 times.
Only difference was, they were always torqued to a specific value with a certain type of lubricant.
And not one time did we have a problem with bolts backing out or losing tension. If a headgasket did blow, it was always due to severe knock or overheating.
This looks like it’s going to be a fun package! What kind of power and torque is expected? Will engine speeds remain about stock?
Using WPC on the camshaft is beneficial on a Honda’s B series as well since these engines don’t have a bearing on the followers like the K series.
Looking forward to seeing what Motoiq does with the transmission of the RSX!