Getting the Most From 91 Octane Pump Gas with a Honda K Motor, Part Three

The Drag Cartel cams are coated with assembly lube.

The cams are then set in place.

The cam caps and bolts are set in place next.

Now the caps are gradually tightened in an X pattern.  A lot of care is taken here so the cams are not cocked sideways as they are being tightened down.  Close attention must be paid to the gap between the cap and the rocker assembly pedestals to keep them equal. If the cam gets cocked, it is super easy to break them!

Once the cam caps are down in place, they are torqued to the correct tightness.

The cam sprockets are installed including the variable timing sprocket on the intake cam.


  1. I am relieved You didn’t use the ARP main studs mentioned in Part One of this build.
    That would’ve been total overkill on that power level.

    In my previous life, I used to work for a motorsport shop that built rally, rallycross and circuit racing K-series engines among other things.
    On NA builds with limited budget (which most of them were), we reused OEM Honda main studs up to 4 times, even head studs were reused up to 3 times.

    Only difference was, they were always torqued to a specific value with a certain type of lubricant.

    And not one time did we have a problem with bolts backing out or losing tension. If a headgasket did blow, it was always due to severe knock or overheating.

  2. This looks like it’s going to be a fun package! What kind of power and torque is expected? Will engine speeds remain about stock?

  3. Using WPC on the camshaft is beneficial on a Honda’s B series as well since these engines don’t have a bearing on the followers like the K series.

    Looking forward to seeing what Motoiq does with the transmission of the RSX!

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