Make Your Own Parts with Shareware CAD and 3D Printing!

NSX Door Frame Billy Design Mirror

The key to creating the missing piece is a simple “mirror” function.  A few clicks of the mouse turns hours of work drawing the scanned part into the missing one.

NSX Door Frame Billy Design Cura Slicer

With the model created, the next step is to process the model in a ‘slicing’ software like Ultimaker Cura.  This takes the solid model and ‘slices’ it into each layer that the printer will lay down.  The layer thickness, print speed, temperature, retraction settings, feed rate, and many more settings are all determined in the slicer software.  This is a crucial part of 3D printing and it can take some time to dial in the perfect settings for each new material to make sure it has the right strength, stiffness, and quality of the print.

3D Print Part

Once the slicer is done, the finished “.stl” file is uploaded to the printer directly via an SD card or wirelessly through software like OctoPrint and then the printer starts the print.

NSX Door Frame 3D Print

Half way though the print, it’s easy to see each layer being laid down.

NSX Door Frame Billy Design 3D Print

With the print complete, the 3D Printed NSX Lower Door Frame is done!

NSX Door Frame Billy Design vs OEM

Compared to stock (above), the new design (below) has thicker tabs with large-radius corners that reduce stress risers and crack propagation.

NSX Door Tab Broken

This is really important when the OEM tabs break at the sharp edges of the tabs.

Table of Contents:

Page 1 – Intro & Problem
Page 2 – 3D Printer
Page 3 – 3D Printer & Upgrades
Page 4 – Learning CAD & Making Designs
Page 5 – Designing NSX Door Frame
Page 6 – Printing NSX Door Frame
Page 7 – Fitting, Testing, and Redesigning NSX Door Frame


    1. I tested a bunch of different materials, different brands, and countless print settings of each. I ended up with one of the PETG filaments.

  1. Great article very informative!

    What would you have done if you didn’t have friends at Mountune to use their FaroArm’s Prizm Laser?

    1. Probably waited for my friend with a light scanner, or paid for one of the many places that do laser or light scanning. Or do more research looking into affordable scanning solutions.

  2. Nice article!

    I’ve been 3D printing parts for my cars for a few years now and one thing I’ve found is that ribs and walls can be made relatively stronger and stiffer for a given mass just by making them thicker but with a low infill percentage.

    Obviously there are limitations with package and if you need another part of the print to have higher infill, but it can be helpful.

  3. I have been playing with an ender 3 v2 for various projects lately and what you can do with these is really impressive. I built an enclosure for it and various upgrade parts. Still playing with PLA+, but i have some PETG to use for automotive stuff.

    If you have not, remember to tape the +5V pin of the USB cable from your pi to the printer, as the printer will draw voltage from there if you cut its power. And when it tries to power 24v fans with that little 5V pin, it may burn some stuff. The 5V pin is the rightmost pin when you look at the port, placing the filled part toward the ground.

  4. Now after going through all the R & D, do you plan to sell these pieces? Would it worth your time factoring in time and material cost?

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