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The hose cuts easily with a hack saw. We wrapped it in electrical tape to prevent the nylon sheath from fraying.
Following the same steps as before we assembled a 90-degree -10 AN hose end…
…and mocked up our T-fitting. With all the fittings and the brass check valve it’s a pretty big hunk of stuff–definitely wouldn’t have fit on top of the oil thermostat. The oil from the Accusump comes from the top fitting, oil exiting the oil cooler comes from the stem of the “T” pointing to the left. The check valve prevents oil from the Accusump from flowing that way back into the oil cooler. Technically it would have been better to have the Accusump plumbed to the stem of the “T” and the oil cooler outlet flow having a straight shot through the top of “T” towards the engine but the stem of the T-fitting is 1/2″ NPT to match the check valve’s threads while the top of the “T” threads are -10 AN—so we didn’t have a choice.
Next we made the thermostat hose ends using the 120 degree -10 AN for the inlet side on top which goes to the bottom pointing leg of the T-fitting and a 90 degree -10 AN hose end for the outlet side which goes to the oil cooler inlet side. Also note the stock RX-7 oil pressure sending unit screwed into the thermostat.
We routed the hoses under the frame rail and secured them with more loom clamps. It’s obscured from the photo but there’s another loom clamp attached to one of the oil pan bolts holding the hoses tight to the side of the engine preventing them from hitting the alternator belt or getting pinched.
