We filled our transmission with Redline MT-85 synthetic gear oil. This oil is formulated especially for the syncros of the 350Z and 370Z (as well as other Nissans, Evo, Hyundai, Kia and Quaife transmissions which use similar syncros) If y0u own a 350Z or a 370Z you know all about the notchy shifting and MT-85 will help even when cold!
The super low tension rings we used require careful break in. We use Driven oil’s BR10 break in oil which is recommended by Total Seal, the maker of the rings. We will break in the engine carefully on our dyno, then switch out the break in oil with high performance synthetic.
First we tapped in a new pilot bearing onto the crank.
The stock Nissan 370Z has a new style integrated throw out bearing and slave cylinder assembly. A lot of late model cars have slave cylinders like this and it is pretty problematic. Clutch dust gets dragged through the slave cylinder’s seals and wipes it out quickly, leading to grinding shifts and eventually a car that won’t go into gear and stalls. To service the slave cylinder you must pull the transmission. All of this sucks.
To fix this issue we will be using Z1 Motorsports external slave cylinder conversion. This will switch our slave cylinder and throwout bearing to a traditional throwout arm and bearing with the slave cylinder on the outside of the bellhousing.
The first step is to measure out height from the crank face to the end of the clutch diaphragm spring.
15 comments
Yaaaasssssss!! Loving these updates!! Since IAT’s are so susceptible to heatsoak in this car, do you think moving the mafs or possible running a different IAT sensor just after those filters would be beneficial?
No, not with the ability to tune the ECU.
interesting. so with uprev/ecutek etc. you can disregard the scaling or just tune to not pull so much timing?
you can change the MAF tables.
Long time listener, first time caller 😉
Surprised you didnt go for long tube headers since you are ditching the cats anyway? Well documented power and SOUND improvements to be had there. Also those intakes are very long, no detriment to power having the inlet tract so long?
We know long tube headers are better for power production, but that’s not what the car owner wanted. He wanted to be able to put the cats back for street use.
Street use, but un-sprung hub. What a mashup! You mention un-spung hub being better for synchros. Why do you figure that?
I guess it’s because the disc, which is still connected to the input shaft via splines is lighter and can change rotational speed easier with less inertia. Got it.
Lighter and less inertia.
Did you guys notice a lot more NVH from the gearbox with the unsprung centre?
I did a CD009 conversion on my SR20 and initially had an unsprung twin plate. Due to the relatively large backlash in the gearbox the off acceleration chattering of the gears was insanely loud. Changed to a sprung centre and majority of the noise was gone.
I know about the noise because my twin disk solid hub clutch on my Z is awful in this regard. In this case it isnt so bad.
oh…
Did you notch the bumper beam, and then box it back in? It looks like it, or Howard is just darn pure magic. It wasn’t called out in the article.
Yes it was…and Howard is most definitely the man!
thanks for the reply Mike cheers