Here is the engine. When we got the car, it had a weird lashup of mounts and the engine was sitting way too high. Now we have the right mounts and the engine is in the proper position.
Now one last look at our pretty Z1 Motorsports clutch and lightweight flywheel before the transmission goes on!
Next we bolted down our transmission to the engine.
Next it was time for the crossmember, transmission mount and driveshaft to be installed.
Our Z1 Motorsports headers were installed next. The headers are an essential part of the 400 hp kit. They are designed to be completely modular meaning that they can be used with any combination of stock and Z1 Motorsports performance parts. This makes things a lot easier when doing mods in stages or if you wanted to run an OEM exhaust with them. The stock VQ37VHR manifolds are tubular headers themselves and are not too shabby of a design but the Z1 parts have longer equal length runners, bigger primary diameters and a smooth merged collector. They are also made of corrosion resistant 304 stainless for a long life with thick machined non leaking flanges.
We replaced the front cats with Z1 Motorsports race downpipes. They are also part of the 400hp kit. We have found that NA engines with larger cams are really sensitive to reflected waves off of close coupled cats bricks as well as back pressure.
15 comments
Yaaaasssssss!! Loving these updates!! Since IAT’s are so susceptible to heatsoak in this car, do you think moving the mafs or possible running a different IAT sensor just after those filters would be beneficial?
No, not with the ability to tune the ECU.
interesting. so with uprev/ecutek etc. you can disregard the scaling or just tune to not pull so much timing?
you can change the MAF tables.
Long time listener, first time caller 😉
Surprised you didnt go for long tube headers since you are ditching the cats anyway? Well documented power and SOUND improvements to be had there. Also those intakes are very long, no detriment to power having the inlet tract so long?
We know long tube headers are better for power production, but that’s not what the car owner wanted. He wanted to be able to put the cats back for street use.
Street use, but un-sprung hub. What a mashup! You mention un-spung hub being better for synchros. Why do you figure that?
I guess it’s because the disc, which is still connected to the input shaft via splines is lighter and can change rotational speed easier with less inertia. Got it.
Lighter and less inertia.
Did you guys notice a lot more NVH from the gearbox with the unsprung centre?
I did a CD009 conversion on my SR20 and initially had an unsprung twin plate. Due to the relatively large backlash in the gearbox the off acceleration chattering of the gears was insanely loud. Changed to a sprung centre and majority of the noise was gone.
I know about the noise because my twin disk solid hub clutch on my Z is awful in this regard. In this case it isnt so bad.
oh…
Did you notch the bumper beam, and then box it back in? It looks like it, or Howard is just darn pure magic. It wasn’t called out in the article.
Yes it was…and Howard is most definitely the man!
thanks for the reply Mike cheers