Extreme Engine Tech: Building the Ultimate K24 Part 3- The Finished Goods!

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To take advantage of our new heads ability to accept an efficient tubular type manifold and to make use of the twin scroll turbine housing, we went with a Blackworks turbo manifold.  The Blackworks manifold pairs cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 keeping the exhaust flows separate all the way up to the turbine exhaust housing. By using a twin scroll we can run a larger freer flowing .94 exhaust housing and still get reasonable spool. The Blackworks exhaust manifold is fabricated from thick schedule 40 stainless steel weld el. This tubing is normally used for steam pipes and is very heat and crack resistant.
The Blackworks manifold has a nice thick and warp resistant flange.  We are somewhat reluctant to run a tubular manifold on something that might see long term use as they tend to crack, but this sturdy manifold should not have many problems.
We wanted an intake manifold with a larger plenum but didn’t think an all out fabricated plenum intake manifold was needed for our end use intentions. For our wide powerband and somewhat limited peak power ideas, we felt that a Skunk2 intake manifold would work well.  The Skunk2 intake is a cast design that has a larger plenum and slightly shorter runners.  This manifold is not the best for peak power but is a step above the stock manifold, especially for turbo use.
The shorter runners terminate in radiused openings leading into the larger plenum.  These act like velocity stacks. The Skunk2 manifold should yield better top end power without hurting bottom end.
Skunk2 also provided these plastic thermal isolation intake manifold and throttle body gaskets. These have been proven to produce small but repeatable power gains by keeping the intake cool and thus the intake charge cooler.
We will be using DeatschWerks 1000cc top feed injectors to feed our turbo motor.  These injectors are a direct drop in replacement for the stock injectors for an easy install. 1000cc injectors should give us more than enough capacity.

12 comments

  1. On part 3 page 5 timing chain is fitted wrong. Timing marks are not correctly aligned and timing is not set properly . Little dots on cam gears should be between gold chain rings. Dashes on intake and exhaust cam gear should point to each other!

    1. We were just doing a dummy fit up to check the tensioner so of course, we didn’t assemble the engine that way. Good catch though!

  2. I appreciate the time, effort and great photos in this article guys, but there are some serious holes in the story here that need to be addressed. RBB valve cover to R40 timing cover does not seal. PRB non balance shafted oil pump conversion requires blocking the old feed port on the block beneath the oilpan. Youve used the incorrect chain tensioner for the r40 block as the old steel bodied tensioners have a slightly different oil port location. Moroso pan doesnt have provisions for the lower torque mount. Although you used aftermarket pistons maybe some measurements on a stock piston compression height and how that clears with these heads. Maybe spotlighting some of these details maybe help to better guide your reader base in tackling some of the hurtles of the R40 4-port conversion. Either way, great content and thanks for your contribution to our industry.

    1. Its been a long time since we wrote the article but I am pretty sure we covered how to do that stuff in the other parts of the series. I know we did the balance shaft and cover stuff. Pretty sure we did the tensioner in other parts. I remember getting the new tensioner.

      1. If there is a revised article beyond this “part 3” that covers these issues, I wasnt able to find it. Is it under this engine build article or something different?

        1. I think there was up to a part 5. You know what, I think I covered this stuff more in our NA build. I am getting things confused. It’s been years!

  3. Great article, Im wondering what engine wiring harness would be used for this build to go back in a 2012 civic si coupe?
    TIA
    Steve

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