Extreme Engine Tech: Building the Ultimate K24 Part 3- The Finished Goods!


We relieved the areas of interference on the pump case with a die grinder, really not a big deal. Note the tape on the oil passages!
Now the pump bolts down perfectly.
We also encountered an issue with the oil filter flow routing.  With the stock oil pump, the oil flows through the elaborate balance shaft housing to a passage in the block to the oil filter on the lower side of the engine in the bed plate.  With the K20 oil pump the oil flows up the block to the filter on the front of the engine in the middle of the block.
Here is the side oil pump boss that must be blocked off, it is not that big of a deal because the K24 comes with a handy dandy block off plate.  You just have to move it to this location!
First, we had to remove the oil filter mounting stud.  Howard made a special service tool (joke) out of two old oil filters, using them as jam nuts to get the stud out of the bed plate.
This is the location on the block where our oil filter will be relocated to. The oil filter stud screws in here and boom, you have a relocated oil filter!  The stock engine has a block off plate installed here, We just removed it, but you will see it in a sec again.


  1. On part 3 page 5 timing chain is fitted wrong. Timing marks are not correctly aligned and timing is not set properly . Little dots on cam gears should be between gold chain rings. Dashes on intake and exhaust cam gear should point to each other!

    1. We were just doing a dummy fit up to check the tensioner so of course, we didn’t assemble the engine that way. Good catch though!

  2. I appreciate the time, effort and great photos in this article guys, but there are some serious holes in the story here that need to be addressed. RBB valve cover to R40 timing cover does not seal. PRB non balance shafted oil pump conversion requires blocking the old feed port on the block beneath the oilpan. Youve used the incorrect chain tensioner for the r40 block as the old steel bodied tensioners have a slightly different oil port location. Moroso pan doesnt have provisions for the lower torque mount. Although you used aftermarket pistons maybe some measurements on a stock piston compression height and how that clears with these heads. Maybe spotlighting some of these details maybe help to better guide your reader base in tackling some of the hurtles of the R40 4-port conversion. Either way, great content and thanks for your contribution to our industry.

    1. Its been a long time since we wrote the article but I am pretty sure we covered how to do that stuff in the other parts of the series. I know we did the balance shaft and cover stuff. Pretty sure we did the tensioner in other parts. I remember getting the new tensioner.

      1. If there is a revised article beyond this “part 3” that covers these issues, I wasnt able to find it. Is it under this engine build article or something different?

        1. I think there was up to a part 5. You know what, I think I covered this stuff more in our NA build. I am getting things confused. It’s been years!

  3. Great article, Im wondering what engine wiring harness would be used for this build to go back in a 2012 civic si coupe?

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