Project S2000: Part 27 – Building the F22c for Turbo Boost and Manifold Test Fit

The F20c/F22c engine gets a lot of its strength because of the beefy main bearing girdle instead of weak little main bearing caps used on less performance-oriented engines.

Before the girdle is fastened to the block, a bead of sealant is applied. Howard applies a full circle around the bolt holes to seal off all possible leak paths.

Howard starting the sequence for torquing down the main girdle. We used new fasteners here as extra insurance. The cost of some new fasteners is way cheaper than having an old one fail, take out the whole engine, and the downtime and labor to replace.

The pistons are installed and looking good. Mahle has directional arrows on the pistons to make sure they are installed correctly.

We installed a new oil pump while we were in there. Again, cheaper to replace now rather than having an issue crop up later. I don’t plan on touching the insides of the engine for a very long time.

While we were in there…… we ordered the ARP head stud kit from Real Street Performance too. Like I said, I like to go over-kill on strength so that I never have to worry about something failing.

21 comments

    1. I budgeted ~$4k for it. I’m planning to get it and the turbine housing coated with SwainTech White Lightning for thermal management.

  1. Did you do any prep on the block with the FRM sleeves? Just a hone or no hone at all? I’ve never messed with FRM lined sleeves so I’d love to hear your thoughts/how you handled that part of the block rebuild. Thanks.

    1. I don’t believe my block required any honing. It did only have 70k miles on it. That said, there’s a very specific procedure with specific honing stones listed in the factory service manual. I went with the Mahle pistons in the standard 87.00mm bore but they are also available in 87.25mm bore.

  2. I spy some 999MP-1217HP Nissan 3bond sealant on the 3rd page, if it’s good enough for a GT-R its good enough for just about everything else lol.

  3. One question about the manifold/hot side setup. What was the reason you opted for an external wastegate vs internal? I would have thought with the tight packaging constraints it would’ve made an internal more desirable but you obviously did it for a reason. Better boost control? Thx!

    1. The way the internal wastegate actuator is angled off the centerline of the turbo makes it pretty wide, so it doesn’t fit. We tried during 3D modeling to see if we could make it fit, but it doesn’t unfortunately. Check out the location of the actuator can vs. the turbine inlet flange and you’ll see why it doesn’t fit.

      https://motoiq.com/project-s2000-part-25-designing-a-custom-turbo-setup-with-3d-scanning-cfd-fea-and-3d-printing/3/

      It would maybe be possible with a regular rotation turbo, but then you basically have to make a sharp 90 degree turn out of the cylinder head, i.e. Greddy and SOS TS-Max turbo kits. And we know how those flow on the topend. Or you have to low mount the turbo, i.e. PTuning. And they had to make a custom engine mount.

      1. Gotcha, thx for the response Khiem. I figured there was a reason. A shame the engine bay is so tight right by the exhaust ports, but the engineers obviously never planned for a turbo.. The concern with an external wastegate is one more component and the heat on track. I’ve heard from a couple people where the diaphragms fail due to the heat. I guess no such thing as a perfect turbo setup for this car..

        1. Tial came to market with water cooled EWGs awhile ago due to failures in track use. The first one I knew of was on the old StopTech Evo X time attack car I helped out with. As the EWG was on the backside of the engine, it got no cooling airflow. Turbosmart has water cooled EWGs now. And if you read the fine print, at least on the Turbosmart EWG that are not water-cooled, it says to make sure there’s good airflow to the EWG. In serious track use, IWG are more prone to fail due to the wastegate flapper/poppet valve breaking off. Though on the newer Garrett OEM gasoline turbos in high performance applications, they have a solid one-piece arm and valve assembly. No more poppet valve to break off. There’s still potential for the arm seizing in the bushing though.

          1. Ya I heard about the EWG’s with coolant ports to fix the problem, but for a street/track car more for fun vs a hardcore track car probably a bit much imo. Ya “serious” track use is a term that varies based on different people. :p I was mainly thinking fun for HPDE’s and being able to run 15-20min sessions. An IWG would suffice for someone like me.

  4. Hello khiem, i have s2000 ap2 stock engine with kraftwerks supercharger. What oil cooler engine recommend. This kit include Intercooler front.
    What position do you recommend to install the oil cooler, behind the radiator? Please give me technical recommendations to make a good assembly. I really appreciate your collaboratio

  5. Hello khiem, i have s2000 ap2 stock engine with kraftwerks supercharger. What oil cooler engine recommend. This kit include Intercooler front.
    What position do you recommend to install the oil cooler, behind the radiator? Please give me technical recommendations to make a good assembly. I really appreciate your collaboratio

    1. You can do a setup similar to mine if you need a lot of oil cooling, so it’ll be custom. If your use case is just some occasional hard driving, you would probably do just fine with an available S2000 oil cooler kit. I would suggest doing research on your kraftwerks supercharger kit.

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